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Shimano Nexus 3 Manual Espa Ol

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Shimano Nexus 3, 4, 5, 7 and 8-speed hubs are currently in production as of 2014. Alfine is a high-end product line with 8 and 11-speed hubs. Alfine hubs feature fancy features including optional hydraulic disc brakes and electronic shifting. Shimano published a (now archived), with most of the needed information about Nexus 5, 7 and 8-speed hubs; however, there is additional information in documents (some also now in the Internet Archive) linked below and on the page for hubs with each number of speeds. Nexus 7 and 8-speed hubs have an ranging from 127 to 135 mm, as sold: see.

Additional spacers can take hubs out to 135 mm. Some of these hubs have a coaster brake, and others accept the Shimano Rollerbrake, a kind of drum brake. If there is no Rollerbrake installed, the overlocknut spacing can be smaller, down to about 124 mm, using a thinner locknut. See for information on installing and removing the Rollerbrake.

Shimano Nexus 3 ManualShimano

Alfine hubs have an of 135 mm and a Shimano CenterLock disc-brake fitting. Shimano sells cable-operated shifters for these hubs only for flat handlebars, but aftermarket (JTek, Microshift) shifters and a Hubbub adapter are available to fit drop bars. Some 8- and 11- speed models have electrical shifting. Electrical shifters work with drop bars or flat bars. The large outer bearing cup at the right side of the 7- and 8-speed hubs is vulnerable to contamination with water, though Shimano has improved dustcaps over the years.

Shimano Nexus 3 Manual Espa OlNexus 3 Speed Hub Review

Service manual vol.1 sg-3c41shimano nexus 3-speed hub t. Sg-3c41 tools note. Q'ty shimano description code no.

If the bearing cup becomes pitted, the hub shell must usually be replaced. Then it is usually most practical to replace the entire wheel. Using oil and waterproof grease is highly recommended to keep water out of the mechanism. Coaster-brakes, however, cannot be oil-lubricated; they must be lubricated with a special high-temperature grease. Do not lubricate the cassette joint (cable attachment parts) -- see advice below. The 11-speed is oil-lubricated. The page covering this hub gives more detail about this.

[fd3055] - Shimano Nexus 3 Manual Espa Ol a list of every word of the year selection released by dictionarycom dictionarycoms first word of the year was chosen in 2010. The Shimano service manual for the Nexus-3 is here: At least the Nexus Inter hub brake that I had on an Agattu did. There is a special. Syncmaster p2470hn manual orporating. Shimano Nexus Service Instructions Manual. Bicycle Accessories Shimano Nexus Inter-8 Dealer's Manual (37 pages) Bicycle Accessories Shimano SC-6500 Service Instructions Manual (26 pages) Bicycle Accessories Shimano DEORE XT FD-M770 Installation. Front derailleur (3 pages).

Nexus and Alfine hubs use the same 3-spline sprockets as other internal gear hubs from Sturmey-Archer and SRAM/Sachs, also used on most coaster-brake hubs. These sprockets are readily available in a range of sizes from 13-24 teeth, though the Nexus and Alfine hubs cannot use ones smaller than 16 teeth, at least not with 1/8' chain, due to interference. By changing the sprocket, you can raise or lower all of the gears at once.

A larger sprocket requires a longer chain. A worn chain will run poorly on a new sprocket. Alfine sprockets include a protector ring which helps to prevent a loose chain from coming off. This is especially helpful if the hub is used with vertical dropouts and a chain tensioner. Most sprockets made for this system are 'dished' so you can adjust the by flipping the sprocket over. Because the shifter mechanism is between the right-side dropout and the sprocket, the chainline is desirably narrow in spite of the large overlocknut spacing of these hubs. The sprocket is held in position by a spring circlip (snap ring).

The circlip can be pried off with a thin flat-blade screwdriver, and the sprocket can then be lifted off. The circlip snaps on, also most easily by levering it into position with a flat-blade screwdriver. Sturmey-Archer circlips, made of round cross-section wire, are easier to install than the Shimano ones with a square cross-section. After re-installing the sprocket, it is a good idea to seat the circlip by going around it and tapping with a hammer and punch.

This is especially important with a coaster brake, which will become inoperative if the sprocket slips off. Gates carbon-fiber also is available for some Nexus and Alfine hubs. Alfine hubs Alfine hubs have the Shimano CenterLock fitting, which accepts a proprietary Shimano disc brake rotor. Cable-operated and hydraulic disc brakes are available. The rotor diameter is 180mm, not the usual 185mm, raising issues of compatibility with non-Shimano caliper assemblies.

The rotor is held in place by a lockring which is different from the one for Shimano cassettes, but can be installed and removed using the same tool, unless it is one with a pin to insert into a hollow axle. Several brands of adapters for common 6-bolt rotors are available.

Or you can leave the rotor off, install the supplied cover for the CenterLock fitting, and use a rim brake. Aftermarket adapters are available to fit a standard 6-bolt disc. Nexus hubs Nexus 3, 4, 7- and 8-speed internal gear systems may incorporate all-weather braking systems. They are available in two forms: • Hand operated ' ®'. This is optional, and there is a cover for the Rollerbrake fitting.

Or • Coaster (back-pedaling) brake All of these systems, unlike rim brakes, are unimpaired by rain and snow, but they also have their limitations. A coaster brake can easily skid the rear wheel, but is hard to control and overheats on long downhill runs. A Rollerbrake is easier to control but also may overheat. A disc brake requires a special fitting on the frame for the caliper assembly. See the separate articles on this site about, and.

Shifter Parts Installation. Most Nexus 3-speed hubs are shifted using a bellcrank and pushrod, as described in.

Most Nexus and Alfine hubs with 4 or more speeds, and one 3-speed model, use a ', a pulley between the right dropout and the sprocket, concentric with the axle -- a protected location which also moves the sprocket inboard, resulting in a conservative despite these hubs' large overlocknut dimension. Some hubs use electrical ('Di2') shifting, with a motor unit between the right-side dropout and sprocket.

Cassette joint Cassette joint parts are the same for the 4- and 7-speed hubs; different for the 5 and 8-speed hubs; different again for the 11-speed hubs. The photo below shows cassette joint parts for a 5 or 8-speed hub, from left to right, the driver cap, cassette joint and cassette joint fixing ring. The 11-speed hub also uses a driver cap; the 3, 4 and 7-speed hubs use none.

Do not lubricate the cassette joint. That makes it collect dirt and stick.

The two parts easily pop apart for cleaning. No need to remove the little screws. Just gently pull. That makes it easy to clean the inside of the adjustment mark view window. (Thanks to Aaron Goss for this info!) With most of the hubs which use a cassette joint, the cable is tightest in top gear; the 11-speed hubs and the SG-7000 and SM-7000 8-speed Alfine hubs pull the cable tightest in the lowest gear.

The cable engages the pulley at the top instead of the bottom with these hubs, and the cassette joint looks like the one in the picture below. Other than that, installation is similar to that of other cassette joints. 2015 Mitsubishi Lancer Ce Workshop Manual. The fixing ring turns clockwise to lock, same as with the others. Shifters are compatible with both types of cassette joints except that indications will read backwards 8 to 1 instread of 8 to 1 if you mix and match. The photos below show the steps in installation of the cassette joint on an 8-speed hub. Sprocket and sprocket circlip are installed before the cassette joint parts. The driver cap snaps on, concave side down.

The cassette joint is installed either of two ways, so the red dots line up. The cassette joint fixing ring is installed so the yellow dots line up. Turn it clockwise to lock it. Motor Unit The motor unit for a hub with electrical shifting is installed with both the hub and the motor unit in first-gear position. Dots at the right end of the hub should be aligned as shown. Shimano has a special tool to align them, but this can also be achieved with careful clockwise rotation of the two notches in the ring shown in gray, using an adjustable pin spanner.

The tabs in the motor unit should be aligned as shown in the next picture. If they are not, use the electrical shifter to shift the motor unit to first-gear position. There should be a rubber sealing ring just inside the indentation in the inner face of the motor unit.

Install it if necessary. The smaller-diameter side faces inward. The motor unit can install either of two ways. Either way is OK: you will rotate the axle when installing the wheel so the electrical connection faces forward.

Place the motor unit over the end of the axle so that marks on it line up with marks on a spacer inboard of locknut B, as shown in the image below. Rotate the motor unit clockwise to engage it with the axle assembly, and install locknut B, which secures the motor unit. (Note: in at least one dealer manual, DM-S7051-02-ENG-1.pdf, labels for inner and outer locknuts are switched.) The legend for the drawing in the manual reads: (A) Right-hand lock nut B (B) Right-hand lock nut A (C) Motor unit Yow! Installation of this hub is already complicated enough! The labels are corrected in the image below.) Cable Installation. • The following are instructions for the 4- and 7-speed hubs.

• Before installing the anchor bolt (which Shimano calls the 'inner cable fixing bolt unit'), shift the hub to lowest gear (loosest cable position). • Instructions for most 8-speed hubs are very similar and begin.